Nicholas Daley is a rising renegade among London’s colorful menswear scene, and the Central St Martins graduate has managed to set himself apart from the pack. Daley readily embraces his multicultural heritage to consistently put out collections with a strong cultural narrative.
In fact, each season, Nicholas collaborates with an artist to produce a mixtape, enforcing the historically-significant binary between style and music. In the UK, Dover Street Market London stocks Daley’s SS17 collection exclusively, with The Bureau also holding the collection in Belfast, Ireland.
Everything. A ton of the pieces from this collection are made from jute, which is a long, soft, shiny vegetable fiber. The material has some personal resonance for the designer too as generations of Nicholas’ family worked in the jute mills of Dundee, in which the material was originally exported from South Asia.
Richard Söderberg’s namesake label is the second offering from the Swedish designer behind cult brand Obscur. For FW17, Söderberg continues an aesthetic emphasis on the power of utility. It’s a solid collection of hardwearing leather staples, with plenty of military silhouettes and an aggressive approach to luxe utilitarianism.
The marbled leather biker anorak is a staple for dooms day or an industrial techno party, just take your pick.
ST-HENRI melts minimal aesthetics with a diverse repertoire of rich pop-cultural references and the result is a collection of juxtapositions, anchored by a pared-back visual treatment. Deftly oversized T-shirts mirror the sartorial codes pioneered by ‘90s hip-hop music, while hand-painted Cotton poplins twist the traditions of traditional western wear.
The “rancher” cowboy shirt in stark white, featuring a Red Stripe bottle cap as a button is standout.